Category: Alpe-Adria (Page 1 of 4)

We had breakfast in the restaurant across the street from our apartment.  At 8 o’clock it was surprisingly busy for a Saturday morning; all men apart from one woman.  The pastries were very good, as was the coffee.

We walked down the road to the next village, Dolina, and then set off on the path through the woods.  The path narrowed as it wound its way round the hillside.  After a while, we spotted some jackets and bags abandoned near the path.  Others had reported even seeing torn up passports, so it is a route for illegal immigrants.  Where they have come from, where they are going to, and why they abandon clothing were questions we debated but couldn’t answer.  We passed through another small village, and then walked on a very stony path down to the valley.  We walked along the road for a short distance and then onto another (flat) path.  This opened out onto tarmac as it passed a large industrial estate.  Other blogs had warned about this section as we made our way around a roundabout, across slip roads, and under the motorway, but it was well-signed and fairly safe.  We then had the final climb of our walk, along a road which could have dated from Roman times to the 18^th century.  We reached the outskirts of Muggia, and had a couple of kilometres to walk downhill into the centre of town.  We walked into the old town, through the piazza, past the cathedral, and there was the marker for the end of the trail.  We’ve walked 599kms, and climbed over 18000m vertically in 36 days of walking.  Muggia is a nice little town, but is dwarfed by Trieste directly across the bay.  We will take the ferry over tomorrow and enjoy a couple of days there.

Today was a good example of some of the bad (and good) things about the Alpe-Adria trail.  We walked 23km, but finished only 3km due south from where we started (maybe 5km by road).  On the other hand, the walking was nice and there was some great scenery.

We left Basovizza and had about 5km of walking to finish the previous stage to Lipica.  The path was very good as it meandered through the forest.  There were lots of information boards describing the birds, trees, reptiles, etc.  In this area the ground was littered with huge boulders and it was difficult to imagine how the land could have been farmed.  The path then joined onto an arrow-straight old road, which had been built to take trade from Trieste into the rest of the Austro-Hungarian empire.  We then passed through a wall marking the boundary of the Lipica estate, which is where the Lipizzaner horses are bred.  The wall was built more than seven hundred years ago, to keep the horses in, and the locals out.  The contrast was enormous, with huge areas of pasture, absolutely no boulders, and oak trees dotted about.  As we walked round the estate, we came to two men next to open gates, with ropes laid across the road.  This was familiar to how the cattle are moved around Hambledon, so we asked, and were told that the Lipizzaner horses were on their way.  We waited a few minutes, the ropes were raised, and about 100 horses and foals came down the track, across the road, and into the pasture.  We carried on down the road, past various signs for casinos, and then started our only big climb of the day.  This took us to the top of Kokos, where we had a coffee at the cabin on the summit, followed by a long, easy descent.  We then walked along the old railway track; easy walking but it does mean that the curves are very long, and it doesn’t go the most direct route.  There were a couple of short tunnels and we then had a nasty zig-zag path, with lots of loose stones, down into the valley.  The descent was short compared to some of our previous Alpine descents, and we were soon at the bottom of the valley.  The path then took us up the other side, and the views were Alpine, though we were only a few kilometres from the centre of Trieste.  We walked alongside the Roman aqueduct, built to take water to Trieste, and were soon at our night’s accommodation, which features a section of the aqueduct in the entrance.

We’ve had a look at some of the comments on tomorrow’s final leg.  This has recently been re-routed, increasing it from 17km to 24km.  We’ve decided to follow the old route, which follows the Via Alpina path.  There’s some interesting comments on this, we shall report tomorrow!

Rather than walking back up the same staircase to get to the Alpe-Adria trail, we decided to take the next one along the coast.  We had a pleasant 20 minutes along the promenade, with people out walking, jogging, and swimming.  Then our workout started….  The narrow staircase led round the side of a building and then straight up the hillside, finally levelling out when it reached the railway line.  There was a pedestrian tunnel under the tracks, and then a short section alongside the railway.  The path started upwards again, and then turned into steps.  We finally reached a small road, running along the hillside, having climbed 500 steps.  This took us to a busy road, where we only had a short section to walk, before starting on a track going up the hill.  The gradient on this wasn’t too bad, but it meant each section between the u-turns was quite long.  As we neared the Alpe-Adria trail, we could see it only a few vertical metres above us, but we still had to walk a further 100m on our track, heading in the opposite direction to where we really wanted to go, before they finally merged.  We were now on a wide promenade about 250m above sea level, with views to Trieste and along the coast.  There were many people out walking on this section.  The promenade gradually sloped up, but was flat compared to what we had just climbed.  At the end of it, we crossed a busy road, and entered a small side road.  This ended as it turned into a track.  At this point there were signs and lots of tape saying that the path could not be used because of work being carried out.  There was no alternative route, nobody working, and we could see the end of the taped off area about 50m ahead, so we walked round the barrier, ducked under the tape, and carried on.  Seconds later we were through the forbidden area.  The path meandered through woodland before we crossed a motorway and arrived in a small village.  We stopped here for a drink and a piece of cake.  We now walked through a wooded area, but with lots of walls from the time when the area was cultivated.  Many of these are being repaired.  There were also lots of depressions, some up to 10m deep, and many entrances to caves.  The hotel at the end of the stage seems to be shut for the whole of October, so we stopped in the village of Basovizza, about 5km before the end of the stage.  It’s a small village, but has another huge physics research laboratory located next to it.  The road through the village is very busy, as it seems to be a shortcut from Trieste to Slovenia.  We are actually just a couple of kilometres outside Trieste and went to a fish restaurant this evening; our first choice restaurant was booked out, and even our restaurant was very busy, we assume with people from Trieste.

Today’s route on the Alpe-Adria took a long loop inland, so we followed the Cammino trail instead. 

We said goodbye to our B&B hosts, and set off from Duino.  The route initially followed the Rilke path; Christine had studied this German poet at university, but didn’t know anything about his time in Italy.  The routes finally diverged, with the Alpe-Adria heading inland, and our path following the main road along the coast.  There was a nice, wide pavement to walk on, and we missed the turn off up the hill, luckily only by about 100m.  We crossed the busy road, and worked our way up the hillside.  This took us about 50m up the hill and then levelled out.  There were numerous caves in this area.  Some had been excavated to provide gun emplacements in both world wars.  We followed this path, working through some fairly rough areas, with great views of the coast, and also some really good bits of path.  We followed another narrow diagonal path up the hillside to the next “level”, leading to another easy path.  After a while the Alpe-Adria path joined up with our route.  A sign informed us that we had passed through a Hungarian WWI training area, with dugouts, trenches, firing areas, etc.  We walked into Prosecco, surprised that there seemed to be no vineyards or wineries.  There is no accommodation in Prosecco and we had booked a hotel back down on the coast.  The route down turned out to be a staircase, which then led us through the International Centre for Theoretical Physics.  We reached the coast, and had a short walk to our hotel.  The hotel promised superb sunsets over the Adriatic, but tonight’s wasn’t nearly as good as last night’s, as seen from the pizzeria next to the main road.  There’s a super-yacht (called A) anchored in the bay.  It belongs(ed) to a Russian billionaire and was seized by the Italian police last year.  The final countdown has now started; we’ve got all our accommodation booked to Muggia, and our flight home.

Last night we walked to a pizza restaurant in a shopping mall, a short distance from the hotel.  As we approached, we felt as if we were back in the Middle East, as there were groups of Asian men sitting on the grass.  The mall had a discount supermarket, and a shop familiar from the back streets of Abu Dhabi, selling plastic flowers and all sorts of Chinese produced junk.  There were even notices in Arabic in the shops.  The pizza was very good and we saved enough for today’s lunch.

We couldn’t get a bus ticket; the Thai in the bar that sold bus tickets assured us that “you don’t need one to travel in town”, so we walked back into town to the start of the stage.  Today’s stage was going to be long and hot, so we had already identified a few possibilities for short cuts.  The bridge out of town took us over the river Isonzo, which we had crossed many times in Slovenia as the Soca.  We followed the road to San Martino de Carso.  There was a small museum (closed) but the board outside had a photo of the village at the end of WWI.  All the buildings had been reduced to rubble.  The inhabitants had been evacuated to the Austro-Hungarian empire, and only a few chose to return after the war.  We then followed the path through scrubland, passing a memorial to Hungarian soldiers, to the next village, which had also been totally destroyed in WWI.  The village also had a large war memorial, with a red star, dedicated to the partisans who had died between 1943 and 1945.  This area has a very complicated history.

We left the village and again decided to walk along the road.  A short distance along it, there were signs to a walk along the edge of a lake.  The lake’s depth is controlled by the water volume in the nearby rivers, and recent rain, as the whole area is karstified, with hundreds of caves.  As usual, though, we didn’t see the lake because of all the trees and bushes.  We reached Jamiano, and now had to keep to the trail as the built-up area along the coast was approaching.  The path took us back into the woods, which were showing significant damage from last year’s fires.  There was a climb up a hill, and finally we could see the Adriatic, complete with a foreground of railway, motorway, refineries, docks, and other assorted industrial areas.  We crossed the motorway and reached the estuary of the Timavo.  This river flows in Slovenia and then disappears underground for over 40kms before reappearing on the coast.  The path took us around a marina, past an old fishing village, and then uphill into the scrubland again.  Thankfully, this section was short and we soon reached our destination of Duino.

Reading the comments about tomorrow’s stage, the general theme is “too much walking in scrubland again”, so we are planning to follow a Cammino trail along the coast instead.

We left the hotel and walked through the town Cormons.  It was 9am on a Monday morning and there was nobody about apart from a few dog walkers.  We assume school must have started very early.  After a short walk out of town the trail branched off into the woods.  Every so often we had views across the vineyards.  The trail then took us round and through many vineyards.  Most had been harvested, but the black grape harvest was in progress.  While many vineyard buildings were fairly plain, there were a few large grand buildings, complete with big gates and long drives.  We left the vineyards and walked alongside a small canal, stopping to look at the outside of a small barracks building that had been built at the start of the Cold War.  Although closed up, it did look in full working order.  A small road took us into the village of San Lorenzo Isontino where we found a bar open and stopped for a soft drink.  Everyone else was enjoying their midday glass of wine.  From here the trail continued south and east, but we decided to cut about 3km out by following the road to the SW.  This road was very quiet (apart from a fire engine with lights flashing) and had a pavement and then a wide strip of grass between the road and the vineyard.  We only had a short section of walking on road as we entered Farra d’Isonzo and joined the Alpe-Adria route again.  We crossed under the motorway (leading from the Adriatic to Slovenia) which had far more lorries than cars, and paralleled it for a short distance before the track turned south again and led us into the suburbs of Gradisca d’Isonzo.  We were glad to reach there as it was getting very hot.  We entered the old town through one of the old gateways and walked into a largely vehicle-free zone, with many fine old buildings.  A short distance later we reached the end of the stage and stopped at a nearby café for an ice-cream and drink.  Our hotel was on the edge of town, so we walked the extra 1.7km to it, passing a thermometer showing 31C.  We will take the bus back into town tomorrow; it’s a long stage without adding to it!

The Alpe-Adria trail often takes very big loops.  We decided that we didn’t want to walk more than 40kms and finish up only a dozen kilometres south from where we had started.  We therefore decided to walk south to Cormons, effectively combining stages 30 and 31 into one day’s walk.  We walked along the (relatively) quiet road due south from Breg, though this being a Sunday, there were a lot of cyclists on the road.  We had the hills to our left, and the plains on our right.  We walked past numerous vineyards, some with basic buildings, and others with grand houses and entrances.  One woman wished us “buon camino” and we later realised from seeing the signs that we were on a pilgrimage route to somewhere.  As we approached Cormons we left the road and followed a path through the woods.  This had a good stone base, but we couldn’t work out whether it was Roman, Mediaeval, or much later.  This took us to the top of a small hill and then it was down into the town.  We found an excellent ice-cream shop and indulged ourselves, before sitting in the town square, in the shade of the trees.  We then walked back out of town to our hotel, which has seen better days, built in the time of the Austro-Hungarian empire.  The dining room had numerous prints of young Austrian soldiers, and had a huge fireplace (complete with spit) for roasting large animals.  Another print shows the German and Russian (?) high commands.  With the giant chandeliers, it was definitely an experience!

We had breakfast at 8am, and caught the 9:15am bus back into Cividale.  While we were waiting there were numerous cars heading for Cividale to spectate at the race, including a convoy of twelve Ferraris.

We had a stroll around the old part of the town, then went to visit the Lombard chapel.  It dates from the 8^th century (possibly later) and has a number of stuccoes and statues from the 11^th or 12^th century.  It’s now surrounded by a later church and nunnery.  The Lombards are believed to be an itinerant tribe that travelled from Scandinavia, before settling in the area (the Long Beards).

Having done our cultural bit, we started on today’s walk.  The first part was closed due to the race and we therefore walked out of town on the main road; pavement at first, but then we had to dodge cars by getting onto the narrow grass verge.  We had a couple of kms of this, and then turned onto a country lane.  This led through numerous vineyards.  Most had been picked, but there were others still to be harvested.  The path led us through woods which was nice as it was extremely hot.  We stopped for a break before another stretch of road-walking.  This soon took us to another short section of path through woods, before we were back on tarmac again.  This lasted a couple of kilometres, before we had an extremely steep climb up to the end of the stage, back in Slovenia.  Our apartment is about 400m along a track from the restaurant; the sunset should be good again!

We had walked all of today’s route in the opposite direction, in the rain, back in 2018.  We therefore decided to walk down the road to Castelmonte, where we could then get the bus into Cividale and do our washing before heading on to our accommodation.  (I had spent a while trying to book one of the many hotels in Cividale, before being told that there is a big car hill climb taking place this weekend, and that all the accommodation had been booked months ago.  We finally found a wine estate just north of Cividale offering accommodation.)  We were pleased with ourselves as we reached Castelmonte, having walked 13.3km, in in 2.5 hours.  This gave us time to walk round the fortified village, buy bus tickets, and enjoy a coffee and cake.  The bus left exactly at 12:09 and we were in Cividale about 20 minutes later, having seen numerous temporary barriers erected for the hill climb, and some of the 250 cars in the “pit area” at the entrance to the town.  We were soon in the launderette and had time to walk round the town centre, before heading back to the bus station for the 3:08 bus to Togliano.  At 3:09, the board changed to show that the bus had been cancelled.  We therefore had another few kms walk northwards, to reach the small village in the centre of vineyards.  Our accommodation is the most spectacular so far, in a large old building attached to the manor house.  We are the only occupants, and have an enormous sitting room all to ourselves.  (There was a free bottle of estate wine in our bedroom; excellent and soon to be available in the UK.)  We walked to a small trattoria just outside the village, with a spectacular sunset going to, and coming back from it.  We have a short walk tomorrow, so the plan is to take the bus back to Cividale and explore the town, and then walk on to our next stop, back in Slovenia.

We left Tolmin after an early breakfast as we had a big climb ahead of us.  The route was flat and we crossed the Soca river for the last time, before heading for the village of Volce.  This was where the climb started, winding upwards through the trees.  The path was generally good, though there were a couple of places where the track followed a stream, essentially straight up the hillside.  We finally met up with the road again, and had a few more hundred metres of ascent before clearing the trees just below the summit.  There were great views to the north of the Slovenian mountains and also of Tolmin, where we had started.  The path then took us through an area of Italian WWI fortifications, all reconstructed, leaving you to wonder how the attackers, after the huge climb, had managed to overrun the defences.  It was a short walk to the summit, where we could now see Italy before us, though sadly not all the way to the Adriatic due to the haze.  A stone at the summit marked the Slovenian/Italian border and we then quickly dropped down to a road.  A short distance took us to the Italian customs house, unmanned, and the refugio next to it, where we stopped for a cake and a drink.  From there, we continued along the route of the Alpe-Adria, past more defensive positions, before we decided to walk on the road instead.  This was easy walking, downhill, and we only saw a couple of cars and one moped.  We soon reached Tribil di sopra, where we are staying in the local commune’s hostel.  We have a room to ourselves; there’s an Australian couple and a German woman also staying.  The evening meal, cooked by a local family, was a Thai/Indian fusion!

The village used to have over 500 people, now there are 30; the restaurant, two bars, shops, and market, have all closed.